Thursday, August 23, 2018

Replacing the power cord plug



This was one of those jobs where I had to find the right time and place to do it. Replacing the plug at the end of the 110v power cord on the rig.

I needed somewhere we could get the part delivered to, where we had enough time to do the job, and where we wouldn't be dependent on the 110v while I did it. Some friends had invited to stay at their farm for a week so that was just what I needed.

THIS ARTICLE IS STRICTLY ABOUT THE POWER CORD FOR A 30 AMP RV CONNECTION. IF YOU HAVE A 50 AMP RIG GET A 50 AMP PLUG AND FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS THAT COME WITH IT. 30 AND 50 AMP WIRING IS DIFFERENT.

This isn't a big job and with a few hand tools it should be an easy 1/2 hour job.

First why replace the plug?

The plug on our RV was old and the blades showed some corrosion. That builds up heat in the plug when higher loads (Like when the AC is running) are put on the AC power.

Heat is a big problem. Heat melts the plastic in the plug, the insulation of the wires. The hotter it gets the higher the resistance in the plug. It's a downward spiral and if you ignore it long enough it can start a fire.
See how the plastic around the right blade is melted?

If you look at the base of the right hand blade you can see where the heat has melted the plastic body of the plug, time to fix it.

The flat blades are discolored and green. Corrosion and signs of excessive heat.
What did I need to do the job? Basic hand tools and a new plug! The tools: a couple of Phillips head screwdrivers, a pocket knife, a set of wire strippers, a pair of scissors or long blade metal shears. Harbor Freight has what you need.


I got the plug from Amazon. Make sure you get a 110 volt 30 amp plug, either male like this one, or female depending on what you are replacing.


BEFORE YOU START ANY WORK ENSURE YOU HAVE THE POWER CORD ISOLATED. UNPLUGGING IT FROM THE PEDESTAL SHOULD DO IT BUT CHECK.

Step one was to cut the cord below the plug sufficiently far back that any signs of heat like melting of the outer sheath is removed.


Next I read the comprehensive instructions. More on those shortly!!

Following the directions I carefully cut the outer sheath with my pocket knife to expose the inner conductors. Take care not to cut too deeply and cut into the inner conductors insulation.


This will expose the black, green and white conductors and 3 brown paper pieces. Cut the brown paper pieces using scissors. These are to help the cord flex more easily.



I carefully cut the conductors to length and stripped the ends of the insulation according to the the diagram.

Very concise cutting instructions. Very concise WRONG instructions!


I opened the back of the plug. The insulators were cut wrong!! AAGH!!

Looking even more closely at the instructions I found the instructions were for a female plug. I of course had a MALE plug.


Several muttered curses later I re-cut the outer sheathing and conductors to suit the male plug.


I slipped the whole cable thru the grommet at the bottom of the plug and after a little struggling (and more cursing) I had the conductors attached to the blades and all the screws snugged up.


MY PLUG HAD THE WIRE COLORS FOR EACH TERMINAL MOLDED INTO THE BODY OF THE PLUG. MAKE SURE YOU GET THE CONNECTIONS RIGHT. MALE AND FEMALE ARE DIFFERENT FROM THE INSIDE OF THE PLUG.



Here's the completed job. I like this style of plug as it should make pulling the plug out of the pedestal easier using the little handle.


Job done.


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