This was one of
those jobs where I had to find the right time and place to do it.
Replacing the plug at the end of the 110v power cord on the rig.
I needed
somewhere we could get the part delivered to, where we had enough
time to do the job, and where we wouldn't be dependent on the
110v while I did it. Some friends had invited to stay at their farm
for a week so that was just what I needed.
THIS ARTICLE IS STRICTLY ABOUT THE POWER CORD FOR A 30 AMP RV CONNECTION. IF YOU HAVE A 50 AMP RIG GET A 50 AMP PLUG AND FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS THAT COME WITH IT. 30 AND 50 AMP WIRING IS DIFFERENT.
This isn't a big job and with a few hand tools it should be an easy 1/2 hour job.
First why replace the plug?
The plug on our RV was old and the blades showed some corrosion. That builds up heat in the plug when higher loads (Like when the AC is running) are put on the AC power.
Heat is a big problem. Heat melts the plastic in the plug, the insulation of the wires. The hotter it gets the higher the resistance in the plug. It's a downward spiral and if you ignore it long enough it can start a fire.
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| See how the plastic around the right blade is melted? |
If you look at the base of the right hand blade you can see where the heat has melted the plastic body of the plug, time to fix it.
 |
| The flat blades are discolored and green. Corrosion and signs of excessive heat. |
What did I need to do the
job? Basic hand tools and a new plug! The tools: a couple of Phillips head screwdrivers, a pocket knife, a set of wire strippers, a pair of
scissors or long blade metal shears. Harbor Freight has what you
need.
I got the plug from
Amazon. Make sure you get a 110 volt 30 amp plug, either male like
this one, or female depending on what you are replacing.
BEFORE
YOU START ANY WORK ENSURE YOU HAVE THE POWER CORD ISOLATED.
UNPLUGGING IT FROM THE PEDESTAL SHOULD DO IT BUT CHECK.
Step
one was to cut the cord below the plug sufficiently far back that any
signs of heat like melting of the outer sheath is removed.
Next
I read the comprehensive instructions. More on those shortly!!
Following
the directions I carefully cut the outer sheath with my pocket knife
to expose the inner conductors. Take care not to cut too deeply and
cut into the inner conductors insulation.
This
will expose the black, green and white conductors and 3 brown paper
pieces. Cut the brown paper pieces using scissors. These are to help
the cord flex more easily.
I
carefully cut the conductors to length and stripped the ends of the
insulation according to the the diagram.
 |
| Very concise cutting instructions. Very concise WRONG instructions! |
I
opened the back of the plug. The insulators were cut wrong!! AAGH!!
Looking
even more closely at the instructions I found the instructions were
for a female plug. I of course had a MALE plug.
Several
muttered curses later I re-cut the outer sheathing and conductors to
suit the male plug.
I
slipped the whole cable thru the grommet at the bottom of the plug
and after a little struggling (and more cursing) I had the conductors
attached to the blades and all the screws snugged up.
MY PLUG HAD THE WIRE COLORS FOR EACH TERMINAL MOLDED INTO THE BODY OF THE PLUG. MAKE SURE YOU GET THE CONNECTIONS RIGHT. MALE AND FEMALE ARE DIFFERENT FROM THE INSIDE OF THE PLUG.
Here's
the completed job. I like this style of plug as it should make
pulling the plug out of the pedestal easier using the little handle.
Job done.
